Alternative Metals and Patination Techniques

Some of my jewellery contains alternative/unusual metals such as Shibuichi, Shakudo or Argentium.

These alloys have special properties which allow me to achieve various colours and finishes in my jewellery that cannot be achieved any other way. It is an incredibly interesting process which I will highlight briefly below - but I encourage you to do your own research if it interests you!

Irogane Metals

Irogane metals are a traditional Japanese set of alloys (metals composed of 2 or more raw elements) that have been in use for over 800 years. They comprise a series of alloys of Copper, with two of the most commonly used alloys being Shibuichi (a mix of Copper and Silver) and Shakudo (a mix of Copper and Gold).

These alloys were traditionally used for decorative purposes, and famously used in many historical Tsuba (sword guards). The appeal of these alloys is the stunning colours that they develop over time due to oxidisation building on the surface.

Whereas raw Copper will go a deep brown, and then can eventually green over time - the mix of elements in Shibuichi cause it to refract light differently, developing a grey to light-black patina over time. Similarly, the small amount of gold in Shakudo, causes it to patina to a rich black with hints of deep purple. These alloys also react differently to a variety of other patination techniques, and a whole array of different colours can be achieved.

Using this ancient knowledge, I have been able to create my own alloys of Shibuichi and Shakudo - allowing me to make jewellery with a much wider range of colours. The deep, almost egg-speckled surface finish of these alloys is unlike any other metal I’ve ever used, and looks stunning in person.

Patination

Just leaving metal to age over time is both very time consuming, and hard to control. Instead, metals like Copper, Shibuichi, and Shakudo can be intentionally patinated with a variety of different chemicals and compounds to achieve a desired finish.

One of my favourites also borrows from traditional Japanese techniques - the Niiro, or Rokushō technique. This very delicate process involves carefully boiling the finished piece of jewellery in a broth of special copper salts and traditional ingredients until it reaches the desired colour.

This technique is very finicky, requiring absolutely perfect surface preparation, correct temperature, and correct balance of ingredients - something that is prone to failure, even for the seasoned veteran. This does mean it commands a higher price, but this process achieves such incredibly precise results that I have not been able to replicate in any other way.

Argentium Silver

Argentium silver is an alloy that has been rising in popularity recently. Whereas sterling silver is 92.5% pure silver mixed with copper, and sometimes zinc and nickel; Argentium silver is 94% pure silver mixed with copper and germanium.

Pure silver has to be alloyed with other materials to increase its strength and durability - otherwise it would not be very wearable. However the additions cause sterling silver to tarnish a bit faster than fine silver, and give it a slightly different colour. Yet, it is still a worthy trade-off that makes sterling silver amazing for most jewellery applications, and is why sterling silver has been the industry standard for a very long time.

Argentium silver however, has even less of those trade-offs than Sterling silver. The higher percentage of silver combined with germanium makes the alloy far more tarnish resistant, and gives it a brighter, whiter colour than sterling silver. The only trade-off being that it is a slightly more difficult material to work with.

So whilst most of my jewellery is sterling silver - a fantastic alloy - certain pieces may use Argentium silver instead, to give a brighter white finish that looks absolutely stunning.